Wednesday 25 April 2007

A Sandwich for the Ladies Who Lunch...

Sandwiches you say? Of course not!

What a preposterous notion that London's fancy ladies should eat such drab, regular fare. However, replace the "brown or white" with French Poilâne, knock off the top slice, pile on some unconventional toppings and give it a fancy drizzle of a balsamico or olive oil, and voila! Leave it to the French to take open faced sandwiches to the next level. Even the name sounds better - "Tartine."

Of course the tartine is not just for fancy well-heeled ladies, everyone can enjoy a tartine. It's very common all over Paris, where the Parisians (who definitely know how to make the best of a good thing) have it for lunch, a quick mid-day snack, or even a light dinner. In London, however - judging from the regular stream of Knightsbridge socialites, waifish Kate's, and well groomed suits that pack the front bar during cocktail hour - the owners of Tartine have managed to make this everyday french fare into almost something of a epicurian fashion statement Most of the women look like they would rather lose an arm than allow evil-carbs to pass their carefully glossed lips.

Well, their loss is my gain, because the food at Tartine is actually very good. Maneuver your way past the thick cloud of cigarette smoke enveloping the front bar by those-who-shall-not-eat-but-drink, and to the back is a very comfortable and cozy area for dining. By the time some of you read this, Britain's indoor smoking ban, effective July 1st, 2007, may have already come into effect and therefore you lucky-ducks will not have to take a few breaths of cancer before your meal. But I digress....back to the meal.

The menu contains over a dozen different types of tartines, with toppings ranging from wild mushrooms, pink prawns, and crab meat, to Moroccan spiced lamb, shredded duck, or smoked salmon. All you vegetarians out there will be happy to know that the Wild Mushroom tartine is one of the best combinations on the menu - which is exactly what I ordered.


A word of warning, before your tartine comes out the staff usually bring over a "house salad" as a starter. I place the term in quotations because as someone who has come to appreciate really great salads, what they place in front of you is an insult to the term "salad." It's basically a few pieces of frilly frisee and leaf lettuce served with a rather bland lemon vinaigrette. I've taken to asking them to skip serving me the salad because I can't stand wasting food (there's starving children in Africa you know?), and if they put it in front of me those sad UNICEF faces guilt-trip me into actually eating it.

So, choke down the salad if you have to because I promise it gets better from there. The tartines are made with French Poilâne - the internationally famous french sourdough bread, lightly toasted with olive oil and then piled on with some rather inventive combinations of fresh and seasonal ingredients. The specials menu is a good place to start, their soups are always pretty good, but the pastas can be hit-or-miss. My top picks from the menu have to be the Wild Mushroom (as mentioned earlier) and the Shredded Duck tartine. If you're a seafood lover, I'd suggest avoiding the Pink Prawn tartine. My friend V ordered it one night and it tasted...well it didn't taste great. When you order your tartines, the waitress will almost always ask if you'd like an order of fries to share. Throw your diets out the window and say "yes," because they are some pretty fantastic fries. Ask for a side of mayonnaise and ketchup and promise yourself you'll eat salad tomorrow.

The wine list is rather short, but roughly half the list is available by the glass, bottles are very affordable, so one needn't break the bank to enjoy a few glasses here. Depending on how much you drink, and I guess how much you eat as well, the bill can vary quite drastically. But if you're on a budget it is still very possible to keep your meal under £15, with VAT and 12 % service charge included. Which, for dinner in South Kensington, is almost a steal.

Overall, Tartine is not without it's flaws; but it is still one of my favorite places for a quick bite in London. The restaurant is never so loud that conversation becomes impossible, the service is always quick and polite, and it is tucked away in one of the nicest neighborhoods in London. With a little direction when it comes to ordering, and a bit of luck getting seated at a roomy corner table, it's the perfect place to go with friends to share a simple but delicious meal, glasses of wine, and lots of conversation.

Tartine
114 Draycott Avenue
London SW3 3AE
Tel 020 7589 4981
Fax 020 7589 5048
Tube Station: Knightsbridge or South Kensington

Sunday 22 April 2007

Draw me a lunch please.


I was lead to Sketch by my friend V one random Saturday afternoon as we strolled the shops along Oxford Street. He had heard of the place through some work colleagues and upon seeing it, I realized I'd also come across it a few times during my time in London, though I'd never ventured in. The restaurant is a rather venturous concept by Algerian-born restaurateur Mourad Mazouz and French chef Pierre Gagnaire. Mazouz is well known in the UK for his phenomenally successful restaurant Momo, an off-beat North African restaurant he opened in 1997. Pierre Gagnair is an icon of the culinary world, having been at the forefront of the fusion movement where he revolutionized French cooking. His eponymous, 3 Michelin Starred restaurant in Paris is consistently voted one of the top restaurants in the industry.

Of course, I knew nothing of this at the time; all I knew was that the menu looked interesting and I was very hungry. The restaurant itself is divided into five rooms: the West Bar, the Parlour, the Lecture Room and Library, the East Bar and the Gallery. In 2005, the Lecture Room and Library at Sketch earned its first Michelin Star for its Pierre Gagnaire's unique use of ingredients and combination of flavours. V and I dined in the the artsy West Bar and settled upon their 3-course prix-fixe lunch menu. Here is what we dined on:

Organic Salmon - Slow cooked organic salmon, white cabbage salad, iced green apple juice and coriander. I loved the combination of apple and salmon, it was so light and refreshing, a very enjoyable starter.

Chicken Breast - Organic chicken breast flavoured with citrus; almond cream and grapefruit juice, spring cabbage, passion fruit and creamy French beans. I apologize for the blurry picture, I'd forgotten my camera at home that day so had to make do with the one on my blackberry.

Sea Bream - Grilled fillet of sea bream and crispy bellota ham, tomato, basil and garlic crouton. They really managed to pack in a lot of flavour into this tiny piece of fish. I liked the simplicity of this course.

Chocolate Cake - Layers of chocolate cake separated by alternating layers of various flavoured mousse. Again, apologizes for the blurry picture.

Okay, so I'm not quite sure exactly what this was called. It was basically a sponge cake with layers of what appeared to be apple reduction of some sort, encased in a crisp meringue shell. As I'm an absolute sucker for any dessert with apples in it, this dessert gets bonus points from me on both presentation and sheer deliciousness.

Overall, I wasn't exactly blown away by the food. It was good, and I really enjoyed the playfulness Gagnaire has with mixing flavours and ingredients, and for a lunch that ran about £30 each it was almost a bargain. I think I may just have to plan a meal in the Lecture Room and Library next time for a more intimate foray into Gagnaire's culinary experimentation's. One suggestion I do have if you do take in a meal at Sketch, is to definitely make a point to visit their bathrooms. Individual egg-shaped pods, clustered together at opposite ends of an open space above the futuristic bar, make for a very amusing trip to the loo. Currently, the 1,819-square-foot Gallery is showcasing a solo-exhibition by Damon Packard called "Lost in the Thinking;" which is ' a retrospective of Packard's shorts, features and fictional trailers that appropriate and revel in the vocabulary of 1970's Hollywood movies and classic sci-fi flicks.' Personally, I didn't get it. To me it just looked like a bunch of random dark and disconnected images flashed on massive white walls, accompanied by bad music, in a massive empty room with big, modern, lounging sofas. But hey, that's just me.

Sketch is definitely a visual and gastronomic spectacle - a unique fusion of art, food, and music. Is it a bit much? Perhaps. Entertaining? Most definitely. If you find yourself in London debating where to have lunch, and wanting something to go home and tell your friends about, make a trip to Sketch - it really is a dining experience like no other.

Sketch
9 Conduit Street, Mayfair
London, W1S 2XG
Tel 0870 777 4488
Fax 0870 777 4400
Tube Station: Oxford Circus or Bond Street

Monday 9 April 2007

So let us begin with a star...

A Michelin Star to be exact.

What better way to start off my first restaurant review than a dinner at a multiple award winning restaurant in one of London's most exclusive districts. The night was meant to be a "farewell London" dinner, but events in the past week have turned it into more of a celebratory dinner, which suited me just fine. I went with my friend B, who recommended the restaurant, having dined there several times already and had yet to be disappointed. Knowing her love of the cuisine, I trusted her judgement and told her to make the call.

Ten minutes and a quick text later - we had reservations for 7:30pm, Saturday night, at Amaya.

The restaurant is from the brainchild trio behind uber-successful Veeraswamy, Chutney Mary and Masala Zones. Since opening in 2004, Amaya has had no shortage of praise thrown at it and almost just as much criticism. In 2006, the restaurant was awarded a Star in the Michelin Red Guide, firmly establishing its status as one of the best non-European restaurants in London. With a ZIP code in one of London's most exclusive neighborhoods, along the border of Knightsbridge and Belgravia, the place is definitely not your typical Indian restaurant. Forget the elaborately, old-world, and just a slight leaning towards tacky decorating that seems to be the standard of most Indian restaurants. Amaya is all modern chic. The lavish dining room is a mix of sleek black accents, rosewood, vibrant red panels and Agra red sandstone, decorated with terracotta sculptures and minimalistic Italian leather chairs. Dim, candle-lit, mood lighting sets the tone for what is an undeniably stylish space catered to a fashionable and glitzy clientele.

Stretching along the back of Amaya, and definitely its main focal point, is the restaurants dramatic open-plan kitchen; housing three different grilling stations: the tandoori, the sigri and the tawa, it provides diners with an excellent view of their meals being prepared. When we arrived it was still relatively early and the restaurant had only a sprinkling of guests. Apparently, the restaurant has a no kids rule after eight, but being Easter long weekend it appeared to have been largely ignored as there were quite a few tables with kids. There were also quite a few flashily dressed women with their well-moneyed men, as well as one very peculiar mute couple that ate their entire meal in silence.

The menu at Amaya might be a little bit of a shocker for most people walking in expecting a typical Indian list of vegetable dishes, curies, and sides. Instead, Amaya's menu is divided into four sections, one for each type of grill- the tadoor, the sigri, and the tawa, as well as a small section of curries and biryanis. The food for the most part consists of small plates, designed to be shared tapas-style amongst the diners at the table. Since the restaurants speciality was pretty obvious, we focused our attentions on items from the grill. Luckily for me, since B was fairly familiar with the menu, I didn't have to agonize too much over what items to order.

After our order was placed, and glasses were 'clinked' (champagne for B, and a mimosa for me), the waiter brought over four little ceramic containers containing two different chutneys and two kinds of spices. We began with two different kinds of tikkas - chicken and monkfish. The chunks of chicken with a paprika marinade were juicy and tasty, nothing spectacular though. However, the bright yellow curried round balls of monkfish, cooking in fenugreek and leaf tumeric were absolutely fantastic. The fish was perfectly flaky and moist, almost falling apart on the tongue, the flavours were fully infused into the fish and the curried spice not overpowering. Both the chicken and monk fish were beautifully presented, and came skewered with what I can only describe as glamorized toothpicks. Next up was the spiced aubergine, a little sweet and tangy with just a hint of heat, there were definitely no complaints there. The show stealer of the night, however, was most definitely the Leg of Baby Lamb; the leg meat was shredded and presented with the bone, incredibly tender and coated in a wonderful light sauce, it was absolutely delicious. Last to come was our rice pilaf and dahl. The dahl was actually very good, but having had the misfortune of arriving after the lamb it really didn't stand much of a chance to shine.

Doesn't look like much food does it? That's what I thought when we were placing our order, but B assured me that it'd be more than enough and it's a good thing I listened. We were both so stuffed by the end that neither of us could bring ourselves to finish off the dahl. Within a few minutes of clearing our plates, our ever attentive waiter (perhaps just a tad bit too attentive) eagerly brought over the dessert menu. The desserts all looked amazing. If you're anything like me, someone who can't "plan" ahead while their eating in order to save room for the last course, then I'm happy to inform you there is a dessert on the menu that is just perfect for people like us. At just 40 calories and no added sugar, even the most waistline obsessed can have one, its their Pomegranate Granita. Served in a martini glass, it was a very appropriate finale to a distinctly different kind of Indian meal.

I can see why some are less than impressed by this rather ambitious and divergent take on Indian cuisine. The prices are not for the faint at heart, portions are (to put it kindly) dainty, and whether its as a result from the area it's located in or the general clientele, it almost comes across as a bit pretentious. Amaya, in all its slinky decor and elevated interpretations on traditional Indian street fare, defies all the traditional western stereotypes of what Indian food is and how it should be. Indeed, the restaurant has been criticized for diverging too far from from tradition and adopting, perhaps, just a bit too much of the western aesthetic. And while I'm generally not one to scoff at tradition, I love a good 'ol spicy vindaloo any day, I do think it's exciting to see someone tamper with it and manage to pull it off so successfully in all aspects - presentation, flavour, ingredients, and setting. Like everything food should evolve. Otherwise, it becomes static and what was once "traditional" eventually becomes just plain boring.

It's about time that a cuisine as aromatic and complex as Indian, has begun to gain recognition amongst the gourmet elite. True, it's undergone a bit of a make-over, and had a few extra $ symbols added to its reviews, but in my opinion Amaya deserves the praise for giving us something fresh, exciting, and a decidedly different experience in Indian dining. Although, a few extra tikki skewers apiece wouldn't hurt.

Amaya
Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street
Knightsbridge, SW1X 8JT
Tel 020 7823 1166
Fax 020 7259 6464
Tube Station : Knightsbridge

Thursday 5 April 2007

London - Imperial China

In Vancouver, British Columbia, there is a restaurant called No.9 in an area called Richmond that is basically open 24 hours, 365 days of the year, and it is almost always busy. The fact that it is a Chinese restaurant should not surprise you. Now why should I mention a restaurant in Vancouver when I’m writing up a review of one in London? Its because anyone that has been to Vancouver knows that it is home to some of the best Asian cuisine outside of Hong Kong and the rest of South East Asia. Now, No.9 is not a fancy restaurant, or even a nice one. The service staff are efficient (in other words rude), the décor is sparse (florescent lighting and wobbly tables), and during busy hours its not unusual to be jammed in so tightly with a neighboring table your chair backs touch. So why, besides the fact its one of the few places open at 5am, do so many people continue to go there? It’s because the food is cheap, it’s tasty, and it’s consistent. There is nothing special about this place, it is just another one of the hundreds of Chinese restaurants in Vancouver, and like so many others a little cracked vinyl, chipped teapots, spots on the white tablecloth, all are easily ignored because…well…the food tastes good. Now, lets get back to London.

In London, there are some good Chinese restaurants. I’m not saying they don’t exist, just that they are few and far between. I find that it is also fairly safe to say that when it comes to Chinese food in London you do get what you pay for, and often a great Chinese meal will set you back more than just a few pounds. More common are the Anglo-Chinese restaurants where Sweet & Sour Pork, Lemon Chicken, and House Special Fried Rice reign supreme. So to say my expectations going into Imperial China were low would be an understatement of the grossest sort. Even as I crossed the little wooden bridge leading to the entrance of the restaurant surrounded by a pretty oriental style garden with its own mini waterfall and fish pond– a reminder, this is still in central London – I was already bracing myself for a meal of various glowing neon colours.

Inside the crowd was a fairly equal mix of Asians and Europeans, an encouraging sight. The restaurant was very dimly lit. It’s possible they were aiming a romantic vibe, mood lighting for first dates, but I found the overall effect a little closer to someone trying to shave a few pounds off their electric bill. The waiters were all dressed in black Mao suits with red piping, and while I’m not sure if it convinced me that the place was any more authentic, I did find myself wanting a set to lounge around the house in.

For dinner we went with tried and true Ma Po Tofu, a recommended Taiwanese Style Chicken, Yin-Yang Rice, and some Bak Choy with Oyster Sauce. Our waiter was quick to try and recommend some of the pricier items on the menu, perhaps we should have taken his advice, but we were pretty set in our choices and just wanted a no-fuss Chinese meal. The food came out fairly quickly and, contrary to the most common complaint of luke-warm dishes in many diner reviews, they were nice and hot out of the kitchen. First to arrive were the Ma Po Tofu and Yin-Yang Rice. The tofu was surprisingly very good, exceptionally silky and smooth, not too salty and with a nice amount of heat to it. Unfortunately, the rest of the dishes fell short of positive praise. Yin-yang rice was a murky orange ketchup sauce with a counterpart white sauce that possessed almost no flavour at all, the Bak Choy was somewhat overcooked, a little stringy, and much too salty, whereas the Taiwanese Style Chicken, served in a clay pot, was ruined by the overwhelming amount of star anise in the cooking process.

While I can’t say that it was a bad meal, I’d be hard pressed to say that it was a good meal. At this present time I think I’ll leave it with a neutral opinion, there are enough good reviews of the place floating around out there to convince me of a second venture before passing any solid judgments. The service was good, the décor ambitious, and the food while not exactly authentic or life changing, still managed to satisfy our Chinese cravings and we left not entirely disappointed. For less than £10/person I think it was a good value, and if for not other reason than that, deserving of a second chance. Don’t we all?

Imperial China
25a Lisle Street
London, WC2H 7BA
Tel 020 7734 3388
Fax 020 7734 3833
Tube Station : Leicester Square

Monday 2 April 2007

London: Borough Market


Every weekend, at the southern end of London Bridge, hundreds upon hundreds of Londoners, tourists, and food enthusiasts of all shapes and sizes, gather to taste and explore the gastronomic delicacies offered in London's famed Borough Market. So what is it that makes this particular market a cultural phenomenon, hailed by celebrity chefs, and setting it apart as one of the most famous food markets in the world? If 4.5 acres of Britain's finest local produce and artisan foods - such as black truffle terrines, towering mounds of award winning cheeses of every shape, taste, and texture, air-dried cumbrian lamb, buckets of olives and gourmet olive oils, wild boar steaks, mammoth sized ostrich eggs, English apple cider, beers from around the world, fine French winse, fresh organic breads, hand shucked oysters, fois gras, and hand made cocoa dusted truffles - aren't enough for you, then there is always the history behind it.


The history of Borough Market can be traced back to AD 43 when the Romans, led by Aulus Plautus, en route to sacking the city discovered the market on south bank of the Thames. There the Romans built the first London Bridge and whilst the Romans were followed by various successors, Borough Market continued to grow and flourish, welding itself into the bustling scene around the bridge. However, by 1272 the traffic from the market was becoming a rather significant nuisance, causing major congestion problems on London Bridge. A few hundred years later, Edward III passed a series of Royal Charters (in 1406, 1442 and 1462), moving the market a few hundred meters up and along the south side of the bridge to little or no effect. Apparently, road-rage from around the area helped deposit more than a few residents into two of London's most infamous prisons -The Clink and The Marshalsea. The poor City of London, thoroughly frustrated and exhausted, petitioned Parliament in 1754 to remove from themselves the responsibility of controlling the area. In 1756, an Act of Parliament granted the parishioners of St. Saviors church to move the market to its current location.

These days Borough Market is a registered Charity organization, run by a board of Trustees, with the aim of "providing relief of the rates for the inhabitants of the parish of St Saviour’s (Southwark Cathedral)." Recently, the market celebrated 250 years of trading at its current site and indeed it has much to celebrate. Not only is it widely recognized as the "Best Market in the Country", Borough Market is rapidly becoming a well know foodie-desination around the world.

Indeed the market is full of charm, if it were a man I'd marry it in a second. What with its bustling english vibe, merchants lined side by side , customers crammed into each other, each vying for that last parcel of hand picked morel mushrooms, the energy of the place filling your head with a pleasant buzz - or is that the sugar high from consuming one too many strawberry tarts and turkish delights? On gorgeous sunny days the bars spill out with people of all ages, pint in one hand and maybe a delectible little nibble from the market in the other. And with spring having come upon London almost overnight, beautiful fresh cut flowers, with their vibrantly coloured blooms, have been added to the great many other treasures one can find in the Market.

All the public accolade and atomospheric allure aside, however, in the end it comes down to the one basic element that started it all - the food. Without the dedicated merchants of Borough, who each believe so strongly in providing only the freshest produce, sourcing the best ingredients, and their focus on quality over quantity, the market would not consistently draw and encourage initial visitors, such as myself, to make themselves, or wish themseles, a regular.







From me to you.

Dear Friend,

Yes, "friend." How do I know that you are indeed a friend? Well, if you have come to this page and are reading these words, it is highly likely the result of humoring a request from a pesky little girl you know; perhaps, one with a penchant for full bodied reds and rich french cuisine, who swoons at the sight of anything containing the words "carmalized" or "truffle" (not necessarily in combination with each other). However, if you are here not as a result of my pestering, then I welcome you warmly and hope you'll stay as both a reader and a friend. Making new friends is always exciting.

So what am I doing here, setting up my own little corner in the blogosphere? The explanation though, far from exciting and ground breaking I'm afraid, is actually very simple:

I wanted to share.

A few weeks ago, I sat fork in a bowl of red beet salad with aged balsalmic, thinking about how I haven't shared a single meal with either of my two oldest and dearest friends in almost a year. Sad isn't it? It's nobody's fault, just part of being this age and at this stage in our lives. The experiences I've had this year, opportunities I never dared to seriously hope for, travels to places I never thought I'd see, food encounters that, literally, left me speechless...so much, and yet, in the madness of day-to-day life I've kept them all to myself. Most of what I do end up sharing are but the bare-bones of the actual story, kind of like a book with nothing left but the rotted old spine and a few ratty title pages. The real flesh of the stories is lost in the mad rush of busy schedules dashing off in opposite directions.

So, to sum it all up, this is a place for me to sit, nurse a cup of tea, think, mull, think some more, and write. No more bare-bones (even if they are good for making stocks, j/k). Most of what you'll find here will circulate around my passion for food. There will be the occasional review of restaurants I know and love, new places I discover and glimpses of little culinary pockets around the world as I occasionally pack up my bags and skip town. I'm no professional chef and not, by any measure, an expert in the culinary or gastronomic world. I am simply just a girl that has a great appreciation for good food. Of course, it won't always be about food. Food is just something I've found to be such a great medium for conversation, love, laughter and sharing.

This is for you my friends.

Much Love,

Pingy